HOW TO: CHANGE A SUUNTO DIVE COMPUTER BATTERY (NEWER MODELS)

I’ve seen the question “why do I have to pay £40 to fit a £2 battery?  Is this something I can do myself?” asked numerous times on forums and social media, and the answer is simply yes.  So when the time came to change one on my wife’s computer I thought it was time I wrote a blog about how it’s done.

This was the opening line to a very similar blog written almost 12 months ago where I showed you how to change a computer battery on older Suunto models such as the Vyper, Vytec and Gekko.  Earlier on this year one of my dive clubs needed to change some of their computer batteries prior to an overseas trip later that week so my wife stepped up, and given the computers were a newer model (Zoop) to the ones from my previous blog, I thought I’d write a second edition.

DISCLAIMER

Do not carry out any work if you are unsure.  Diving equipment is life support equipment.  If you are in any doubt please visit your local dive shop (LDS).

Furthermore Suunto strongly advises against changing the battery yourself and that it should be done professionally.  If you change your own battery and the computer fails or floods due to a lack of pressure test then you are doing so at your own risk.

Fitting the battery

Caveat.  Given the lack of pictures within this blog, my other blog may need to be consulted if you are unsure of the description.  

You will need the following:

1. 2450 battery.

2. Torx (size T6).

3. Replacement O-ring (optional but kits available on eBay often come with one).

4. Small flat thin screwdriver (optional).

5. O-ring grease (optional).

The battery cover opens by removing 3 screws with the Torx (size T6).

Remove the cover, and then finally the battery.

Swap out the battery and re-assemble, taking particular note of the O-ring.  Ensure it is laid flat and when replacing the cover it does not pinch.  If you decide to use grease ensure it is used sparingly and ensure that the O-ring is free of dust and lint.

Replace the cover and 3 screws.

Once you’ve checked that it works and fires up remember to reset the date & time.  If you’re still using the traditional strap, why not mount it in a Bungee Mount instead?

The boring bit!

All opinions expressed in my articles are my own and may differ to other instructor’s and agency guidelines; by no means are they wrong and I would not wish to disrepute any of them.  This article is for information only and should not replace proper training.

Safe diving!

Timothy Gort

BSAC, PADI & SDI/TDI diver training

l Mob: 07968148261 l Email: tim@rectotec.co.uk l

HOW TO: MAKE A PORTABLE CYLINDER RACK

Why?

I am sure that at some point, all divers have experienced the issue of transporting a single, or even multiple cylinders in their vehicle, only to have them roll around in the boot or footwell.  Which at best could ultimately damage the cylinder paintwork, cylinder valve, or your vehicle, and create a horrible banging noise.  Or it could result in the cylinder valve opening resulting in a loss of gas and again a horrible loud noise.  Or at worse, if the valve bursts it could blow out of the vehicle causing significant damage to life or property.  Therefore, it’s important when transporting cylinders to keep them safe and secure.  

If you always carry a car full of cylinders a cylinder rack isn’t required, however, the picture below is the exception and not the norm…

… so I decided to look at transportation options.

My original cylinder rack was made out of decking and carried 3 cylinders.  It was robust and secure; however, it was extremely large and took up a lot of boot space (especially when not in use).  After a short trial and deciding that it wasn’t suitable it has since been chopped and turned into my DPV stand (see below).  

The only option was to try and make something that was more lightweight and portable.  As with a number of my “How to’s”, such products are available to buy, however, in true Tim fashion, I thought that I could make something for a fraction of the cost.

Construction

You will need the following components:

1. Wooden dowel, stair bannister, pool noodles, plastic pipe, or similar for securing the cylinder.

2. Cave line from a spool.

3. Oxygen tubing.

And the following tools:

1. Hand saw.

2. Drill with bit.

3. Knife or scissors.

4. Lighter.

Start by cutting your dowel, pipe etc… into 1-2 foot sections.  You will require 2 for a single-cylinder followed by an additional one for each extra cylinder.

Next drill holes through each end, wide enough to fit the cave line.  

Next cut the oxygen tubing into the required lengths.  In the case of my cylinder rank, the wooden dowel is spaced at 6.5” centres or 6” knot to knot*.  My particular rack can take 12 or 15l steels (although in the case of the 15s not side by side) as well as ali 40, 7 and 80 stages.  The image below shows 2x 15l steels and an ali 40.  The reason for the tubing is because it gives some structure to the rack and acts as a separator preventing the dowel from sliding together.  

*Depending on the diameter of the pipe or dowel you intend to use these dimensions may vary so adjust accordingly.  

Starting off with a knot at one end, thread the cave line through the drilled hole, knotting it and adding the tubing between each dowel as you go.  Finish off with a knot at the opposite end and cut off the remainder of the line.

As you can see from the images, this works extremely effectively to prevent the cylinders from rolling around.  However, the setup may still slide if you have a plastic boot liner as I do due to the lack of friction.  And when not in use, it rolls up and stows away nicely.

The boring bit!

All opinions expressed in my articles are my own and may differ to other instructor’s and agency guidelines; by no means are they wrong and I would not wish to disrepute any of them.  This article is for information only and should not replace proper training.

Safe diving!

Timothy Gort

BSAC, PADI & SDI/TDI diver training

l Mob: 07968148261 l Email: tim@rectotec.co.uk l